Behind HO KARAN hides real talents - and French! Every week, we go to meet our experts, precious and passionate partners who help us design products of the highest standards. Célie Troussard, at the head of the NAO laboratories, manufactures our treatments near Orléans. She tells about her profession and reveals all the stages of production in natural and conscious cosmetics.
What is your profession ?
I am the director of the NAO laboratories. We are experts in the formulation and manufacture of cosmetic products. On site, we will be able to manage the different stages, and all facets of the life of a cosmetic product from its creation to its release on the final market: therefore the formulation (note: not in the case of HO KARAN) care, manufacturing, filling, primary and secondary packaging, and finally logistics.
What happens in the manufacturing lab?
If we can manage the formulation, for HO KARAN care it is Frédérique Bellanger, another partner (whom we also know) who takes care of it. For other customers, we can offer this support based on specifications, a blank page that we will write together or even from our skeletons of existing formulas.
Then comes the manufacturing where we will manage the different galenics (creams, lotions, gels, foaming products, hygiene products) for the face, body or hair. We work in small series, it is a chance compared to most of our colleagues, because the minimum production is 40 kg (which represents a small series of 200 pieces for a format of 200ml for example). We can obviously make larger series as needed, but it is an asset when we want to launch into the market or make small restockings. After manufacturing, we can manage the primary filling in jars or bottles, manage the secondary filling with the casing for example or the labels, mark the batch number… Finally, we can coordinate the regulatory part - a crucial step for the authorization of the marketing of cosmetic products. It is necessary to be able to carry out various safety and efficacy tests, and to write the information file specific to each cosmetic treatment which guarantees the safety of the product for the end consumer.
What are the stages of manufacturing a HO KARAN treatment?
In particular, we manufacture the deodorant and the makeup remover trio. For example, Gender Fluid, is composed of an aqueous phase and an oily phase. The two phases will therefore be manufactured independently by following the operating mode which was given by the formulator with the proportions and percentage of each raw material adapted to the volume ordered. We go through a weighing phase of each raw material, then they are mixed according to the recipe, the different stirring times and the incorporation orders. After this step, comes the microbiology and the verification of the organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics of the bulk produced. Finally, we move on to filling the bottles.
How to go from a beaker to a bench?
The essential step between formulation and manufacture is what is called the industrial transposition step. We are going to reproduce the formula that was made on 200 or 300 grams in the bench on a larger volume, perhaps 40 kg of production in the real equipment of the manufacturing workshop. This will allow us to validate the mixing times, the stirring speeds, the different stages adapted to a larger quantity.
How to limit the rate of waste?
We are committed to limiting the waste rate as much as possible so as not to misuse raw materials or the bulk produced, and therefore we will each time calculate the needs for current productions as accurately as possible. The waste mainly arrives at the filling stage and it is a little bit of material that will remain in the pipes of the machine. In general, you need a maximum of 1 to 5 kg of bulk waste and that is why we promote maximum use of the hopper!
What are the biggest challenges on a daily basis?
First, to find quality raw materials sourced as locally as possible - it's a real struggle and a commitment that we've been on for several years. We are working on what we call a green chemistry, as natural as possible. Natural raw materials, organic raw materials - and that's what we liked about the collaboration with HO KARAN.
Obviously, through our laboratory, brands can guarantee 100% made in France. We pay attention to our packaging, now all recyclable and soon to be mostly recycled. We try to offer 200 or 250 ml formats but also whole liters - formats that are more economical and respectful of the planet (for less waste in the end). I like to say that we are “creators of happiness”, for example by helping project leaders to turn their dreams into reality, by moving from the idea to the finished cosmetic product or by supporting brands on a daily basis in their project management. .
What do you think is unique about HO KARAN?
This is already the story of Laure, female entrepreneurship, her universe, that of the brand, her commitment to eco-responsible packaging, local purchasing, the history of hemp in Brittany, all that, c is extraordinary. And all the education carried out by the communication team around the benefits and challenges brought by hemp and cannabis!
Read also :
Pierre-Yves Normand, chanvrier in Brittany for 20 years
Frédérique Bellanger, cosmetic formulator
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